Saturday,
June 26, 2004. The agenda for this day was shopping! Everyone
was excited, because it would be the first day our group was
unleashed at the Khan al-Khalili (bazaar) and Al-Wikala, Mahmoud's
infamous shop packed with 4 stories of dance costumes. It was
also our final full day at the Victoria Hotel, and therefore
our last opportunity to visit the little mall near our hotel
that catered to locals rather than tourists. Those members
of our group who wanted to purchase drums in In the evening, our group would be going to see the tannoura (whirling dervish) show at the Citadel.
Mahmoud's Despite
the close quarters, the intense heat, and the frustrations
people were having in finding items that fit well, the mood
was cheerful, friendly, and cooperative. People helped each
other fasten hooks, tug on zippers, and adjust fit. Seasoned
dancers helped students assess which costumes looked best on
them. After a while, people realized that some of the best costumes weren't even on the racks - they were lying or hanging in the dressing rooms. When people rejected a piece, they tended to leave it in the dressing room rather than return it to where they found it. So then the dressing rooms experienced additional activity as people looking for costumes dug through the piles that had accumulated on counter tops and floors. This time I didn't actually buy anything myself. Because I was in the process of relocating to a new home 2,000 miles away from my former one, I kept thinking about how my existing collection would be new in the eyes of my new dance community and therefore I didn't really "need" anything more at this time. Also, I had two costumes at home that I had never yet performed in even once, and it seemed silly to buy yet another when I hadn't yet used what I already had. But of course, I couldn't resist looking through all the treasures just in case I found something too wonderful to ignore. Nothing screamed "Buy me! Buy me!" though, so I contented myself with guarding the dressing room door, tugging on zippers, and advising. The current
costuming trend in Most
of the costumes purchased this day at Mahmoud's were in the
$200 price range (U.S. dollars) each. This was true regardless
of whether they were evening gowns with accessories (headband,
ankle cuffs, gauntlets) or whether they were bra/belt/skirt
sets with accessories. Similar costumes sell in the Khan al Khalili After
purchasing my perfume bottles and a couple of T-shirts to use
as gifts, I made my way to Reda's shop. Reda
makes magnificently embroidered caftans, and I wanted to see
what type of merchandise he is currently offering. Plus, I
had come to know Reda my previous two visits to I knew it was dangerous to set foot in Reda's shop. I spent nearly $200 acquiring three of his latest beautiful garments for myself. One was a full length rose-colored dress/jacket set, and the other was a full-length burgundy hooded jacket that would be lovely to use as a cover-up over a costume. Mohammed Ali Street At 5:00 p.m. we reconvened on the bus and returned to our hotel to refresh ourselves, catch a bit of supper, and get ready for the evening outing of watching whirling dervishes.
The Tannoura Show
The show began with a concert by the band. Featured soloists on drum, mizmar, and sagat (finger cymbals) each took a turn playing a set, then stepped back into line to allow someone else to have a turn. The men were wearing traditional Egyptian gallibiyahs (robes) and turbans. The man playing sagat was particularly popular with the crowd because of his fun-loving, teasing personality. I had originally seen him as part of this show in 1999. Back then, his charisma definitely stood out, but he appeared merely as one of the ensemble (although he did have a featured spot to play an instrumental solo). It was interesting to see how his role has evolved from that of "generic band member" in 1999 to "major cast member" in 2004. Following the soloists, the spotters who would be watching the dervish to ensure he didn't spin into harm came on stage holding frame drums. Before taking their positions as spotters, they performed a choreographed dance as a group. The music played for tannoura is Sufi religious music. Instruments for it typically include ney (flute), rebabas, and drums. A vocalist sings religious lyrics. At
last the featured soloist entered. I also saw him when I went
to The show ended with a second whirling performance, this one by a trio of young men. It was very interesting to see the difference between their theatrical whirling (complete with ballet-style spotting) versus the first one who allowed himself to become lost in the moment. More coming! Have
a comment? Send
us a letter! Ready
for more? Last
years report- 6-29-04 Zaharr's
Memoir, Part 9, A Visit to my Teacher's Teacher, More
Street Performing 6-19-04 San
Francisco Ethnic Dance Festival Photo
Teaser June
12-27 2004 Palace of Fine Arts photos
by Susie Poulelis 6-14-04 The
Making of a Bellydance CD by Dunyah 6-
8-04 Nagwa Sultan: Cairo
Soul by Edwina Nearing |
The
Gilded Serpent presents...
For
several years, the Egyptian Ministry of Culture has been presenting
a show of whirling dervishes twice per week at the Citadel. Known
as tannoura, this show demonstrated the Sufi (mystic)
practice of whirling, Egyptian style. 
