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Dancing in North Beach by Sausan The Bagdad: stale smoke, dirty carpets, dusky ambiance and glitzy costumes. These were some of the golden qualities of a little nightclub tucked away in San Francisco’s North Beach on Broadway strip that contributed to one of the most memorable times in my life. It was about three years after I came to the San Francisco Bay Area from Sacramento in 1980 that I decided to try my luck dancing in a local nightclub. After talking to my then teacher, Nakish, I ventured down to North Beach one evening by myself, parked on the street and headed to the famous Bagdad nightclub, positive enough in attitude to prove to everyone (including myself) that I was good enough to get hired. I had been dancing for about eight years by then, and I wanted to put my knowledge out there in the belly dance arena.
Every night that I was scheduled to perform at the Bagdad, I would arrive in North Beach at around 7:00 PM, find a place to park on the street, and wait in my car until 9:00 PM. To bide my time, I sewed beads onto costumes that were in the works. Then I’d haul myself out of the car and find my way to my little oasis on Broadway. On the occasions when the door was still locked, I was often invited to drink coffee next door, where young girls made their money stripping. Sitting there watching them reminded me of how out of place the Bagdad and I were.
Nothing really remarkable ever happened to me during the nights I performed at the Bagdad. However, I did go in one Thursday evening to find several people wiping down walls and washing cushion covers. Upon inquiring why, I was told that during the previous night’s activities there had been a murder of sorts. I didn't tell my mother about that night until years later.
My first evening at the Greek Taverna is memorable in that the owner, Stavros, or Steve as he was known, told me not to show my face until 15 minutes after the regularly scheduled performance time. I said OK, and went down to change. As I walked up the stairs, the top of my head must have popped up above the guardrail, because the band began to play, and they introduced me at the exactly scheduled time. Imagine my distress when Steve began yelling at me, while wagging his finger and saying how all dancers were the same – nothing but a bunch of stupid women, all alike! I should have quit that night, but I didn’t. I danced for about a year at the Greek Taverna and then quit there and went back to the Bagdad, where I was introduced to someone who told me about a little restaurant called The Grapeleaf that needed a dancer out in the Richmond District of San Francisco. I went out to audition and was hired on the spot.
Having worked at the Bagdad, as well as at the Greek Taverna, The Grapeleaf, and other well-known places of the time prepared me to open my own restaurant, called Al-Masri, as well as my Egyptian dance academy called Sausan Academy of Egyptian Dance. In my classes I pass along my “North Beach” dance experience to my students, who enjoy hearing about it. However, if anyone had told me back in 1980 that I would be the future owner of an Egyptian restaurant in San Francisco that featured my own students from my own dance academy, I would have laughed right in his face. Now I just cook for the customers and my students dance for them. And all because of the thrill that ran through my veins the first night I went to audition at a little Arabic nightclub tucked away in North Beach called the Bagdad! Have
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