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The newly
remodeled interior of Al Masri, |
Sausan's Saga
at The Grapeleaf Restaurant
by Dhyanis
San Francisco's atmospheric Grapeleaf Restaurant will soon reopen as Al
Masri (The Egyptian), fully renovated and redecorated, with a shift from
the former Lebanese to an all-new Egyptian theme and menu. Phoenix-like,
arising from the ashes of a dreadful divorce and forced closure, petite
and spunky owner-operator Sausan has persevered and returns stronger than
ever with her new partner from Egypt. That new partner, Hatem, from Alexandria
in Egypt, had previously been a steady customer at the former Grapeleaf.
When he saw it flounder, he told Sausan he could help "turn it around".
The walls were formerly covered with tapestries and the largest collection
of camel artifacts ever crammed between four walls along with plants that
flourished, then died. These same walls now are graced with Egyptian motifs
of Hatem's artistry. The kitchen will serve up his favorite family recipes.
We at Gilded Serpent wanted to know more about Sausan; she was gracious
and candid during our several interviews as we pried into" herstory"
and private affairs! She said that her mother was 2nd Lieutenant in the
Women's Air Corps during WWII. After the war she flew to Guam, where her
intended husband was employed, and married him there. He was a civil engineer
whose expertise was "horizontal construction" of airports and
roads. His work took the family to Madrid when Sausan was one year old.
By age four, she was learning Flamenco and Alegrias - with castanets!
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In 1984 she auditioned for Gabe Michael, Lebanese-American owner of The Grapeleaf. By 1986 she quit her day job to marry Gabe. (Here I tried to comment on the vast cultural gap between American Woman and Middle Eastern Man, but Sausan insists now that Gabe was a full-blooded American chauvinist). Sausan become a full partner in the restaurant, as well as frequent performer. She began packaging and distributing a line of appetizers to health and gourmet markets (e.g. hummus and baba ganooj) under the trademark "Culinary Clyde's", after the restaurant's mascot, Clyde the Camel. Every year she sponsored "Christmas with Clyde and Friends" which included an all-day workshop and evening performances by nationally known dancers such as Amaya, Sahra, etc. Many dance events have been catered by Sausan, including Desert Dance Festival in San Jose, (September) and Festival Fantasia in Sebastapol, (October). Who could forget the biannual belly dance flea market! There we discovered Sausan sold a collection of cloisonné dancer pins (still available). Meanwhile, Sausan also served as Petty Officer in the Navy Reserves from 1978 to 1998, during which she performed on bases the world over, including both the North and South Poles (hence her nickname the "Bipolar Belly Dancer"). During the Gulf War She was in ready reserve status while servicing and refueling aircraft in the U.S.
If that were not enough, she found energy to publish internationally, "Sausan's Resource Directory Guide for Belly Dancers", as well as a quarterly newsletter of local events (now called "Mohamed Ali Street Corner Quarterly"). These were put on the "back burner" during the three-year crisis of divorce proceedings. At first Gabe evicted her from the Grapeleaf Restaurant and claimed all rights to her publications. When he went back to his family in Florida (1995), she formally bought the lease and became the "leaseholder" or "landlord". In 1997 she then filed a restraining order to exclude Gabe while she opened the restaurant Sunday nights only, with live music and dancing (primarily for dance teachers to bring students to experience live performance). Those nights we saw her working in the kitchen, literally "sweating over a hot stove"!
The court eventually awarded to Sausan all the at-risk permits, licenses and revenues generated by her meticulously culled mailing list of 10,000. She recently sent a gracious letter of apology to all of her advertisers with discounted rates to recompense for the lapse in publication. She is striving to get the magazine out again by the end of this year.
Sausan's target date for re-opening her restaurant
is November 26. With the expert help of her partner, Sausan has cleaned,
re-wired, re-plumbed. She has re-painted, re-upholstered, and has also
installed two new sound systems (one for live and one for taped music).
The cozy, 49-seat restaurant now reflects the glorious days of ancient
Egypt. The extensive menu includes traditional Egyptian dishes such as
Mulokhia (leafy green plant called Jewish mellow or jute plant), U'Ass
(turnip plant), Bamyia (okra), Lubiya (black-eyed beans) and many more.
Additional entrees include crab, lobster, prawns, New York steak, shish
kebob made with filet mignon, rabbit, chicken, game hens, and quail, as
well as many salads. Beverages include Egyptian fruit drinks plus Egyptian
and domestic beer and wine. A secluded private room is now available for
parties of up to twenty people. 
Sausan will employ several Belly Dance artists to perform nightly, Thursday
through Monday. She welcomes outside performers passing through San Francisco
and offers them a chance to showcase their talent. Sausan herself says
she has stepped down from performing in deference to "providing the
opportunity to would-be professionals eager to break into the dance field".
She claims this is her choice and not another "Middle Eastern Man
Dictate".) Sausan also has plans for an Egyptian cookbook and several
works on Middle Eastern Dance, as well as a new line of Egyptian dressings
and sauces for distribution to local markets.
Many kudos and zaghareets to this friendly, bright-smiled, freckled, ever-the-girl-next-door-looking
woman who followed her dream of dance and continues to provide a place
for the rest of us to do the same!
Brava and thank you Sausan!
For reservations and information: Phone: 415-876-2300 Fax:
415-668-5229
To get on Sausan's mailing list send all your info to:
PORT SAID PUBLICATIONS
2215 Market Street Suite 214
San Francisco, CA 94114
